We’re making up for slacking off at Logroño with four 29 km. days to make sure we make it to Burgos on April 10 to meet Rosan.

Photo Series: The Road Out of Logroño

One of the reasons we are always the last to arrive at our destination is because we keep stopping to take photos like these:

And we keep engaging strangers in conversation, and stopping for coffee and bathroom breaks.

This stranger told us that, when in doubt as to which way to go, always look down and watch for these signs:

This is Kim. He is from Denmark. We met him because I thought he was the German guy earlier at the bakery. I didn’t know his name so I called out, “Hey, Pilgrim!” It turned out to be Kim. We met the German guy later on. His name was Andre.

Kim had an injury and was limping so we stopped with him at this lakeside bar, where we met these two Spaniards who were drinking a bottle of red at ten in the morning. We were happy to meet them. They reminded me of Statler and Waldorf, the two hecklers on The Muppet Show.

The last two days, I carried a day pack. Except that I do not have a day pack and have been using the flimsy bag we got for free from the baggage courier company.

Photo Series: Navarette

A German guy caught up with us yesterday and asked why we didn’t have our backpacks and, when we told him we had them sent ahead of us, he scoffed (- I may be making this up for artistic license) and took his highly efficient long German legs and backpack and left us in the dust.

Since the flimsy daypack has been cutting into my shoulders anyway, tomorrow, I’ve decided to go back to carrying my reduced-weight backpack. Even if it is heavier, the weight of the pack is more evenly distributed so that it is more comfortable to carry around.

Photo Series: Detour Through A Country Club on the Way to a Parochia

I’ve been coping with 4-degree mornings with only a fleece top. While it is inadequate, the afternoons are scorching and I’d rather put up with nearly freezing to death than lug around useless extra layers. Our left sides, which are constantly exposed to the sun as we slowly make our way to Santiago, are now the color of burnt toast.

We’re still the Las(t) Pergerinos. Even if we’re the first ones up, we’re always still the last ones out of the alburgues. But, because we are starting out earlier, we’re walking with more people and making more friends along the way.

Most of the time, we go at our own pace which means that we don’t always walk together. But when we get tired of being on our own, we regroup and crack jokes to lighten things up.

We’ve got a few running jokes, which I am not at liberty to elaborate on, but they involve:

– our intentions for the day (mostly catching up to pilgrims who keep passing us by but really shouldn’t)

– a Camino de Santiago pin-up calendar

– receiving the worst possible consolation prize at the end of the Camino whenever we utter anything inappropriate (- I think we’ve lost the toaster oven and the mini rice cooker and are now down to YC Bikini Briefs)

– and a teleserya involving a fellow pilgrim, the soundtrack of which is a speeded up acordion-version of “My Way”.

While we are getting into town earlier than we used to (because we’re becoming more efficient at repacking), the pain in our legs and feet have not eased.

Today, I asked a Korean chick how she was doing.

"I’m fine, " she replied.

And then she took a moment and changed her answer. “No, I’m sorry,” she corrected herself. “I want to die.”

At Logroño, I watched newly arrived pilgrims at the hostel shuffle into the shower rooms on ruined feet like zombies.

I’d like to say that our tolerance for these long walks is improving but, well, Stephen has a new blister and, below my ankles are only nerve endings constantly screaming for a day of reckoning.

Accommodation:

Puerta de Najera, Najera

Loveloveloved this albergue. The private room (two double deck beds) was 15 euros per person (no breakfast but with a vendo machine and a microwave). No blankets were provided so a sleeping bag is essential.

There are separate showers and toilets for men and women but the sink area is common.

San Juan Bautista Parochial Hostel

Our first Church-based donation-only accom. For me, this is essential to the Camino experience.

Everyone is at Mass now…

… while I’m at the bar, drinking sangria and writing this.

Afterwards, we’re all having dinner together and have some Church tour.

Will let you know how it goes but, so far, Stephen and I love it while Raffy and Alan have already expressed the desire to return to booking private albergues.